
Lawn care tips and FAQs to improve the
health and look of your lawn
Good watering practices
Keeping your yard healthy doesn't have to be time consuming and can even be relaxing. Wise water
use is one sign of a good gardener. Follow these tips to keep your lawn and garden adequately
watered:
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During hot periods of the growing season, watch for signs of plant stress and in need of
water. Newly-planted shrubs, trees and lawns require extra attention. Rain gauges let you know
when you need additional water.
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Use mulch to retain soil moisture in your planting beds. Keep weeds out of the lawn and
from planting beds. Weeds compete for both water and nutrients.
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Water early in the morning to minimize evaporation and fungal diseases. If the lawn or
garden is becoming stressed or endangered from lack of water, go ahead and water without
delay. Avoid using sprinklers on windy days.
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Water trees and large shrubs at their drip lines (this is under the outer edge of the limbs).
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Use soaker hoses and drip irrigation to deliver water directly to the base of the plant
where it's needed.
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Water deeply to promote root growth. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. Strong
root systems create hardier turfgrass. Shallow waterings evaporate before water is able to
saturate into the soil where it's needed most.
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Mow your lawn at the recommended height for your type of turfgrass. Mowing grass too close
causes stress and invites disease. Letting grass grow too tall also increases the chance of
disease.
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Have your lawn aerated as needed to increase the soil's water absorption. Normal aeration
is about every 2 years unless you have excessive thatch buildup or extreme soil compaction.
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If you have an underground sprinkler system, keep it adjusted and well-maintained.
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Don't forget end-of-the-year maintenance to protect your hoses and watering system from
winter freeze damage. Water expands as it freezes. At the
end of the season drain hoses, water timers and sprinklers before the first frost. Store
them where they won't freeze.

Mowing tips
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Don't cut your grass too short, particular for our cool season grasses. Higher heights
usually provide for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds
invading, particularly crabgrass.
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Don't remove any more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any one cutting. If circumstances
arise that a lawn gets too tall and you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up,
bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3 or so days
between cuttings.
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Avoid mowing when the grass is wet.
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When mowing only 1/3 with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly
decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Grass clippings
do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.
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Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing. Altering the direction ensures
a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into
a set pattern.
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K eep your mower's blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the
mowing season. Keep several blades around so you'll always have a sharp one on hand.
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Don't forget to change your mower's oil at least once during the mowing season.
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If you didn't drain your gas tank in the fall, or use a fuel stabilizer, don't use that
old gas, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new
mowing season.

Frequently Asked Questions
Below are some common questions and answers that we often receive. They should be considered
as general information and may not apply to all situations. We encourage you to ask one of our
trained lawn technicians or call the office during regular business hours if you have a special
problem. We'll be more than happy to discuss possible solutions specifically designed to address
your situation.
Q: What is a pre-emergent application?
A: Pre-emergent applications, such as our corn gluten, put down a microscopic layer on the soil
that prevents many seeds from sprouting, including crabgrass. This invisible shield is usually
put down in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 55-60 degrees.
Q: I want to plant new grass seed this spring. Can I plant seeds after this treatment, but before
the crabgrass begins to grow?
A: No. The pre-emergent will also stop desired grass from growing also. It is generally better
to wait until the fall to plant new grass seed after a pre-emergent application has been put
down. However, there are some special situations that we can help you with. Please call our office
to discuss your situation.
Q: What is slow release fertilizer and what are the advantages of using it over other lawn fertilizers?
A: Slow release fertilizers are actually microscopic coated capsules of fertilizer that breakdown
and release their important fertilizer and trace elements over a long period of time. This ensures
that your lawn's root system gets those nutrients in measured doses that won't over-stimulate
the plants into a sudden growing spurt requiring more mowing.

Q: What is a "lime" treatment and what will it do for me?
A: Lime is a term often used instead of Limestone, which is a naturally occurring compound of
Calcium and Magnesium that can be applied to the lawn to help balance the soil's pH. Having a
balanced pH makes the soil more conducive for turf grasses to thrive. Lime naturally helps control
the acidity in top soil. To get the full benefit of readily available food to your lawn, the
top soil must have the optimum pH level. If the pH level is too low, the soil is not able to
break down the nutrients in the soil and makes it more difficult for your turf grass to absorb
those nutrients. Some soils may require more than one treatment per season. Our lawn technicians
will be able to give you an accurate assessment of your soil's condition. In some cases we are
using Solucal where additional calcium uptake is required by the plant.

Q: What are grubs and why should I worry about them?
A: Grubs are actually the larval stage of a variety of different kinds of beetles, including
May and June bugs and voracious Japanese beetles. Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil in
mid to late summer. As the eggs hatch, they develop into the white-wormish looking larvae. As
the larvae grow, they work their way down to the root zone of your lawn where they eat the roots.
Usually in early fall you'll suddenly notice dead patches of lawn start showing up in your lawn
if you have grubs. By this time, it is too late to effectively treat for them and they will begin
the process again. Grub control is largely a matter of timing so that they can be controlled
in their early stages of development and before they go deep into the soil and go dormant for
the winter. At Simply Safer Premium Lawn Care, we apply a preventative grub treatment with Merit,
providing you with guaranteed season-long control.
In our Organic Program, we use beneficial nematodes
that are a totally safe biological control of parasitic insects. We apply the nematodes to your
soil in the early fall which gives them the best opportunity to establish themselves in the soil
and attack harmful grubs and sod webworms populations before they cause extensive damage to your
lawn. They can also be applied in the spring to control existing grub populations to stop further
damage.
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If you have a question about your lawn or landscape, please call our office and one of our technicians
will stop by to give you a free, no-obligation evaluation of your lawn and how it could be improved
with a Simply Safer Premium Lawn Care customized program.
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